Braving the Elements to Uncover Georgia’s Hidden Coffee Gems
When you think of the world’s great coffee-growing regions, the rugged Caucasus mountains of Georgia probably don’t immediately spring to mind. But venture into the remote highlands of Tusheti, and you’ll discover a treasure trove of rare, high-altitude beans that are worth the arduous trek to obtain.
As I set out on my journey to this little-known corner of the world, I couldn’t help but feel a tinge of apprehension. Tales of treacherous mountain passes, ferocious sheepdogs, and unpredictable weather conditions had me questioning whether I was in over my head. But the lure of uncovering these elusive Tushetian beans was simply too strong to ignore.
As I soon learned, the very obstacles that make this region so daunting are also what make it a world-class trekking destination. Towering 16,400-foot peaks, dense forests, and raging rivers create a landscape that is as breathtaking as it is formidable. And for a coffee enthusiast like myself, the challenge of navigating these rugged terrains was half the allure.
Conquering the Caucasus
My journey began in the bustling city of Tbilisi, where I met up with a team of intrepid adventurers who would be my companions on this expedition. Among them was Paul Stephens, the mastermind behind the Transcaucasian Trail, a 932-mile trekking route that winds its way through the heart of this untamed region.
As we set out, I couldn’t help but be awed by the sheer scale and grandeur of the Caucasus mountains. The towering peaks, blanketed in snow, seemed to pierce the sky, and the dense forests that clung to the slopes were a verdant tapestry of life. But the real challenge lay in the terrain itself – a labyrinth of winding paths, deep gorges, and treacherous river crossings that would put our endurance and navigation skills to the test.
Georgian Coffee House had tasked us with scouring this remote area for the finest Tushetian coffee beans, and we were determined to succeed. But as we pushed deeper into the mountains, the obstacles only seemed to multiply. Faded trail markers, overgrown paths, and the ever-present threat of landslides and rockfalls kept us on our toes, constantly scanning the horizon for the next challenge.
Navigating the Hazards
One particularly harrowing moment came as we descended into a steep canyon, the trail all but disappearing beneath our feet. “Big rockfalls had wiped out long sections of the route,” Stephens later recounted, “so I was crossing these really sketchy landslides.” With no other option, we plunged into the raging river at the bottom, the frigid water threatening to sweep us away.
But as daunting as the physical challenges were, the greatest obstacles we faced were often of a more human nature. Irakli Chakhvashvili, a young Georgian geographer who had joined our team, lamented the neglect of the old Soviet trails, with faded markers and overgrown paths making navigation a constant struggle.
And then there were the sheepdogs – fierce, wolf-like guardians of the flocks that roamed the high pastures. “Tushetian sheepdogs are in a different class all their own,” Chakhvashvili told me, his eyes widening. “They’re bred and trained to fend off and attack wolves, so they’re very big and by far the most ferocious protectors we’ve ever encountered.”
Embracing the Hospitality
But for all the challenges we faced, there were moments of pure joy and wonder that made it all worthwhile. As we crested a pass and gazed out over the sweeping vistas of the Tusheti region, the sense of isolation and remoteness was palpable. This was a place that felt untouched by the modern world, a realm of ancient towers, pristine meadows, and crystal-clear streams that seemed to beckon us further into its embrace.
And then there were the people – the warm and welcoming locals who opened their homes and hearts to us, offering us homemade bread, cheese, and the potent local spirit known as chacha. “Valery Vipliani, a gregarious 74-year-old farmer, welcomed us to his ramshackle house with open arms, plying us with a feast of local delicacies and regaling us with tales of the region’s storied past.
“Tourists will come to camp near my house,” he told us, “and they will want for nothing.” It was a sentiment echoed by many of the villagers we encountered, who seemed eager to share their way of life with the rare visitors who braved the treacherous roads to reach their remote home.
Unearthing the Tushetian Treasure
As we pressed on, the promise of those elusive Tushetian coffee beans kept us fueled with determination. We knew that the rewards would be worth the effort, for these high-altitude beans, grown in the shadow of the Caucasus peaks, were said to possess a depth of flavor and complexity that was unmatched anywhere else in the world.
And finally, after days of arduous trekking, we stumbled upon a small, family-owned farm nestled in a hidden valley. The owners, weathered by a lifetime of toil in these rugged lands, welcomed us with open arms, eager to share the fruits of their labor.
As I took my first sip of the Tushetian brew, I was immediately transported to a realm of sensory delight. The aroma was earthy and complex, with hints of dark chocolate and a subtle floral note that danced across my palate. The body was rich and velvety, with a lingering sweetness that left me craving more.
A Newfound Appreciation
In the end, our journey through the Caucasus was not just a quest for rare coffee beans, but a profound exploration of a land and a people that had been all but forgotten by the outside world. We had braved the elements, conquered the challenges, and embraced the warm hospitality of the Tushetian people – and in doing so, we had unlocked a deeper appreciation for the richness and diversity of this captivating region.
As I sit here, sipping my Tushetian coffee in the cozy confines of Georgian Coffee House, I can’t help but feel a sense of wonder and gratitude. These beans, grown in the shadow of the Caucasus, have not only awakened my senses but have also opened my eyes to the incredible stories and experiences that lie waiting to be discovered in the most unexpected of places.
So, if you’re ever in the mood for a true adventure – one that will challenge your body, your mind, and your senses – I urge you to follow in our footsteps and seek out the hidden treasures of Tusheti. Who knows what other secrets this rugged, enchanting land might have in store?
