Unearthing the Roots of Kvevri Ales
Ahh, kvevri ales – the stuff of legends, the nectar of the gods, the elixir that sets my taste buds ablaze with delight! As a lover of all things fermented and funky, I’ve been on a quest to uncover the history and nuances of these captivating brews. And let me tell you, my friends, the journey has been nothing short of revelatory.
Gose, that tart and tantalizing German ale, might be the kvevri-inspired cousin we all know and love. But the true roots of these sour libations stretch far beyond the borders of Germany, back to the ancient winemaking traditions of the Republic of Georgia.
You see, in the Caucasus Mountains of this small Eurasian country, the kvevri – a large, egg-shaped clay vessel used for fermenting and aging wine – has been the centerpiece of winemaking for over 8,000 years. And it’s this centuries-old technique that has inspired a new generation of brewers to push the boundaries of what beer can be.
Discovering the Magic of Kvevri
As I delved deeper into the world of kvevri ales, I was captivated by the sheer ingenuity and artistry of this ancient craft. Imagine, if you will, massive clay pots – some as large as 2,500 liters – buried underground and filled with crushed grapes, stems, and skins. The liquid ferments and ages within the porous walls of the kvevri, imparting a unique terroir and depth of flavor that can’t be replicated anywhere else.
Anna Mindess, a writer who has explored the Georgian wine scene, describes the process as “a marriage of nature and culture.” She explains, “The clay vessels allow for gentle oxygenation, while the wild yeasts and bacteria present in the kvevri contribute their own distinct flavors and aromas.”
It’s this natural, hands-off approach that has captivated modern brewers, who are seeking to recreate the magic of kvevri winemaking in their own sour ale creations. By fermenting and aging their beers in kvevri-inspired vessels, these artisans are unlocking a whole new world of complex, layered flavors that defy traditional beer styles.
Kvevri Ales: A Taste of Georgian Terroir
One of the first breweries to really push the boundaries of kvevri-inspired ales is MG Brewery in Tbilisi, Georgia. Founded by a group of passionate brewers and wine enthusiasts, MG has made it their mission to celebrate the country’s rich winemaking heritage through their innovative beer creations.
“When we started MG, we knew we wanted to showcase the unique terroir of Georgia,” explains Giorgi Mchedlidze, the brewery’s co-founder. “And what better way to do that than by fermenting and aging our beers in traditional kvevri?”
Their flagship kvevri ale, simply dubbed “Kvevri,” is a prime example of the style. Fermented with a blend of wild yeasts and aged for several months in a buried kvevri, this beer boasts a captivating interplay of tart, funky, and subtly sweet flavors. The nose is a fragrant bouquet of ripe stone fruits, while the palate is a harmonious dance of bright acidity, earthy undertones, and a hint of residual sweetness.
“It’s a beer that really transports you to the heart of Georgian winemaking,” Mchedlidze says with a gleam in his eye. “Each sip is a journey through the terroir of our vineyards, with all the complexity and nuance that comes with it.”
But MG Brewery isn’t the only one tapping into the potential of kvevri ales. Across the globe, a growing number of adventurous brewers are embracing this ancient technique, putting their own unique spin on the style.
Worldwide Kvevri Ale Renaissance
Take, for instance, Do Re Mi Khidistauri, a Georgian winery that has begun experimenting with kvevri-fermented beers. Their “Unfiltered Dry Kvevri Red” is a stunning example of what can happen when the worlds of wine and beer collide. Fermented and aged entirely in kvevri, this bold, unfiltered ale boasts a deep ruby hue, a complex nose of ripe dark fruit and earthy spices, and a velvet-smooth mouthfeel that lingers on the palate.
“We wanted to really push the boundaries of what a beer could be,” says winemaker Nika Khidistauri. “By embracing the traditions of our ancestors and fermenting in kvevri, we’re able to create something truly unique – a beer that’s equal parts wine and ale.”
Across the Atlantic, American brewers have also caught the kvevri ale fever. Massachusetts-based GEO Brewing Co. has made waves with their “Kvevri Saison,” a vibrant and effervescent ale that celebrates the rustic charm of traditional Georgian winemaking. Fermented in a custom-built kvevri, this beer showcases a harmonious blend of tart, spicy, and earthy notes that dance across the tongue.
“We were instantly captivated by the depth of flavor and complexity that comes from fermenting in kvevri,” says GEO’s head brewer, Lila Torosyan. “It’s a technique that really allows the natural character of the ingredients to shine through, and we knew we had to try our hand at it.”
Bridging Traditions: Kvevri Ales and Gose
Of course, as I’ve alluded to, the kvevri ale craze hasn’t emerged in a vacuum. These sour, funky brews share a deep kinship with the beloved German style of gose, which itself is enjoying a remarkable renaissance in the craft beer world.
As the Alcohol Professor explains, gose is a “very unique sour German ale style that is perfect for hot days.” Like kvevri ales, gose is typically brewed with coriander and sea salt, giving it a distinctly salty-tart profile that’s both refreshing and complex.
And while the origins of gose may not trace back quite as far as the kvevri tradition, the parallels between the two styles are undeniable. Both embrace a natural, hands-off approach to fermentation, allowing the wild yeasts and bacteria to work their magic and imbue the beer with layers of flavor.
“Kvevri ales and gose are like long-lost cousins,” muses Mchedlidze of MG Brewery. “They both tap into that primal, earthy quality that can only come from a truly artisanal approach to fermentation. It’s no wonder they’ve both captured the imagination of modern beer drinkers.”
Exploring the Diverse Flavors of Kvevri Ales
But the world of kvevri ales is far from a one-note symphony. As brewers continue to experiment with this ancient technique, the range of flavors and styles has exploded in dizzying, delightful ways.
Take, for instance, the kvevri-fermented sour ales from Shavi Lomi, another Georgian brewery making waves on the international stage. Their “Shavi Lomi Rkatsiteli” is a captivating example of what can happen when you combine the power of kvevri fermentation with the bright, citrusy notes of the Rkatsiteli grape variety.
“We wanted to really showcase the natural acidity and fruit character of the Rkatsiteli grape,” explains Shavi Lomi’s head brewer, Eka Khmaladze. “By fermenting and aging the beer in kvevri, we were able to coax out these vibrant, almost wine-like flavors that dance on the palate.”
The result is a beer that’s equal parts tart, tangy, and subtly sweet – a true ode to the terroir of Georgia’s wine country. And it’s not just Rkatsiteli that’s making an appearance in kvevri ales. Brewers from around the world are experimenting with a diverse array of grape varieties, from the earthy, textural Saperavi to the floral, fragrant Kisi.
But the magic of kvevri ales isn’t limited to grape-based fermentations. Brewers are also exploring the potential of other local ingredients, like the aromatic spices and herbs that have long been a part of Georgian culinary tradition.
Do Re Mi Khidistauri‘s “Unfiltered Dry Kvevri Red,” for example, features a subtle hint of marigold, which adds a delicate floral note to the beer’s already complex flavor profile.
And over at GEO Brewing, Torosyan and her team have been experimenting with the earthy, umami-rich flavors of Georgian blue fenugreek, infusing it into their kvevri-fermented ales to stunning effect.
“The possibilities are truly endless when you start to explore the bounty of Georgia’s culinary landscape,” Torosyan enthuses. “By tapping into these local flavors and combining them with the magic of kvevri fermentation, we’re able to create beers that are not only delicious, but also deeply connected to the culture and terroir of this remarkable region.”
Embracing the Unexpected: The Joy of Kvevri Ales
As I sip on a glass of MG Brewery’s “Kvevri,” I can’t help but marvel at the sheer complexity and depth of flavor. It’s a beer that defies easy categorization, transcending the boundaries of traditional styles and inviting the drinker to embark on a sensory journey.
And that, my friends, is the true beauty of kvevri ales. They’re not just beers – they’re living, breathing expressions of a centuries-old winemaking tradition, imbued with the essence of the Caucasus Mountains and the skilled hands of the brewers who coax out their magic.
So if you’re a beer lover looking to expand your horizons, I urge you to seek out these kvevri-inspired creations. Embrace the unexpected, the funky, the utterly delicious. For in these sour, complex ales, you’ll find a world of flavors that will transport you to the heart of Georgia’s rich culinary heritage.
Who knows – you might just discover your new favorite beer. And if you happen to find yourself in Brooklyn’s Georgian Coffee House, be sure to ask about their selection of kvevri ales. I have a feeling you’re in for a truly unforgettable taste adventure.
