The Historical Origins of Georgia’s Coffee Culture
Georgia has a long and storied tradition of coffee cultivation that dates back to the ancient Christian monasteries established in the country during the Early Middle Ages. The earliest records show that coffee trees were first introduced to the mountainous regions of Georgia by Byzantine monks in the 9th century AD. These pioneering clergymen recognized the stimulating and medicinal properties of the coffee bean and sought to cultivate the cash crop on the fertile volcanic soil surrounding their remote monasteries.
Over the following centuries, Georgia’s isolation in the Caucasus Mountains helped the small nation preserve its unique coffee varietals that had adapted to the region’s cool climate and high elevation terraces. While commercial coffee production exploded across regions like Brazil, Indonesia and Ethiopia starting in the 18th century, Georgia’s coffee farming remained small-scale and centered around the labor of these rural monasteries. The monks would harvest the coffee cherries by hand before processing the beans using simple stone mills.
The monastic estates became renowned across Georgia for their distinctive single-origin coffees with floral aromas and bright acidity. Visitors to these mountain retreats could be seen sitting with robed clergymen in the vine-covered courtyards, enjoying a hot cup of monastery-grown coffee alongside slices of locally baked bread and wildflower honey. While monastic life in Georgia faced turmoil during the Soviet occupation, many historical coffee cultivation techniques have thankfully been preserved.
Exploring a Surviving Monastery Coffee Estate – The Davit Gareja Complex
Nestled in the rugged Caucasus foothills, one of the last ** functioning monastic coffee estates open to visitors is located within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Davit Gareja, a 6th century cave monastery complex near the town of Gareji. After a scenic three hour drive east from Tbilisi through vineyard-dotted hills, I arrived at the gravel parking lot overlooking the striking ochre cliffs**.
A warm welcome was extended to me by Father Ilia, a bearded monk dressed in the traditional black robes of the Georgian Orthodox Church. He invited me to join him for a tour of the grounds, pointing out the carved chapel grottos, ancient manuscripts being restored in the scriptorium, and beehive-shaped guest cells where visiting pilgrims once lodged. We eventually arrived at the secluded coffee fields situated on a high plateau with panoramic canyon views.
Father Ilia explained that this heritage site was one of the last functioning monastic estates still cultivating Arabica varietals using centuries-old techniques. The monks had replanted many heirloom coffee trees originally imported from Ethiopia that were well-adapted to Georgia’s subtropical highland climate. He guided me through the terraced rows, identifying rare bourbon and typica cultivars with their distinctive glossy leaves. The monks meticulously pruned and tended each plant by hand throughout the year.
Monastic Coffee Processing Methods Preserved for Centuries
After the morning harvest, Father Ilia invited me into the ancient stone mill to observe their bean processing. He described how this traditional technique had been unchanged for generations, with the coffee cherries first being parched over an open fire before manual depulping using wooden tools. The wet beans would then be laid out to dry on tarpaulins in the sun for several weeks, periodically raked by hand.
Once fully dried, the parchment-coated beans were winnowed by gentle tossing to separate the cherry remnants. This labor-intensive process produced naturally processed beans with complex floral notes reminiscent of jasmine and honey. We sampled a cup brewed from the recent harvest – its balanced acidity and smooth body highlighted the terroir-driven qualities imparted by the rocky volcanic soil and cooling mountain breezes.
Father Ilia was proud to preserve these centuries-old techniques that have shaped Georgian coffee culture. While mechanization transformed worldwide production, the careful handcraft of the monks resulted in exceptional specialty lots. Their small-batch lots are now rare heritage cultivars sold at a premium to discerning local roasters, helping to financially sustain the monastery. Visitors can learn of this living cultural heritage on guided tours of the Davit Gareja complex offered throughout the year.
Contemporary Georgian Coffee Culture – Reimagining Tradition
While Georgia’s monasteries pioneered its coffee legacy, the country’s modern coffee scene has recently blossomed with the rise of specialty roasters seeking to showcase Georgian terroir. In the cobblestone alleys of Tbilisi, innovative cafes have emerged blending tradition with progress. At Ruleta Coffee Roasters, they source direct from small farmer cooperatives and monastic estates to meticulously roast distinctive single-origins highlighting the unique flavours of each mountain growing region.
Visitors are welcome to tour their industrial roasting facility and warehouse where heirloom varietals are being meticulously cataloged to help conserve genetic diversity. Inspired baristas craft nuanced pour overs and cappuccinos showcasing Georgia’s finest beans. Meanwhile at Cafe Littera, located within an 18th century caravanserai, guests can sip Turkish coffee alongside stacks of aged manuscripts as live music echoes through the vaulted stone halls.
Through projects like the Geocuisine Bay Ridge cafe and cultural center, modern Georgia honors its ancient coffee roots while fusing tradition with innovation. Local roastery tours and cuppings offer a cultural experience for visitors to deeply explore the country’s unique coffee heritage. Both spiritual pilgrims and specialty coffee aficionados will find much to appreciate in Georgia’s storied mountain monasteries and farmgate estates.
