The Georgian Wine Odyssey
When I first set out on my expedition to explore the wonders of Georgian wine, I’ll admit I had some preconceived notions. Like many wine enthusiasts, I was familiar with the country’s long, storied history of viticulture – after all, Georgia lays claim to being the birthplace of wine itself. But I also confess to a certain bias towards the more conventional, “international” styles of Georgian wines that have been steadily making inroads into Western markets in recent years.
You see, I had this working hypothesis that if Georgia wanted to truly succeed on the global stage, it would need to focus on producing clean, modern wines using its unique indigenous grape varieties, like Saperavi and Rkatsiteli. The thinking was that these distinctive local grapes, vinified in a more familiar style, could help the country stand out in the increasingly crowded and competitive world of wine exports.
As I wrote in a previous article, I believed that the high-quality “natural” qvevri wines (fermented in the traditional Georgian clay vessels) were simply too much of a niche to support the industry as a whole. Boy, was I wrong.
Qvevri Wonderland
When I actually set foot in Georgia and started visiting wineries, my eyes were opened to a whole new world. The natural qvevri wines I tasted were nothing like the rustic, funky products I had imagined. Instead, they were alive and vibrant, with a palpable sense of tension and energy in the glass. Wines from producers like Gotsa Family Wines, Pheasants Tears, and Iagos Wine Cellar completely shattered my preconceptions.
I was particularly captivated by Iago Bitarishvili’s humility and dedication, and Beka Gotsadze’s infectious enthusiasm. These winemakers are doing something truly special, using traditional Georgian methods to craft wines that are not only delicious, but also deeply evocative of their terroir. And the stories behind these wines – the centuries-old winemaking lineages, the struggle to preserve endangered grape varieties – added an extra layer of fascination.
A Diversified Approach
My visit to the Teliani Valley winery was a real eye-opener. This large, diversified producer challenged my notion of there being a single “best” strategy for Georgian wines to pursue. Their portfolio included not just the expected international-style Saperavi and qvevri-fermented offerings, but also a surprisingly delightful semi-sweet red wine made from the Saperavi grape.
The Teliani Valley Kindzmarauli, with its vibrant fruitiness and well-integrated sweetness, was a revelation. It made me realize that Georgia’s wine industry isn’t a simple either/or proposition, but rather a rich tapestry of diverse styles and expressions.
As the Wine Economist article so eloquently put it, “Georgian wine isn’t one thing, it is many things.” Any attempt to oversimplify and choose a single “one wine to rule them all” strategy is bound to fail. The country’s true strength lies in its ability to embrace and celebrate this remarkable diversity.
Connecting the Dots
It was during my travels through the Kakheti region, often referred to as the “cradle of Georgian wine,” that I began to see the connections between the country’s winemaking heritage and its emerging role as a hub of coffee innovation. After all, both wine and coffee have deep roots in this part of the world, with Georgia’s long history of cultivation, processing, and consumption of these beloved beverages.
In fact, Brooklyn’s Georgian Coffee House is a testament to this rich cultural intersection, where the traditions of Georgian viticulture and the art of coffee roasting and brewing come together in a unique and delightful synergy.
The Coffee Connection
As I delved deeper into the story of Kakheti, I was struck by the region’s remarkable capacity for innovation when it comes to both wine and coffee. The same spirit of experimentation and preservation of ancient practices that has made Georgian wines so captivating is also evident in the country’s burgeoning coffee culture.
Just as winemakers in Kakheti are reviving long-forgotten grape varieties and rediscovering the magic of qvevri fermentation, so too are the region’s coffee producers pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. They’re exploring new processing methods, resurrecting heirloom coffee cultivars, and crafting unique flavor profiles that are drawing the attention of discerning coffee drinkers around the world.
It’s a fascinating symbiosis, with the rich soil, temperate climate, and centuries-old traditions of Kakheti nourishing the creativity and innovation of both the wine and coffee industries. And it’s this complementary relationship that makes the region such a compelling destination for anyone seeking to immerse themselves in the sensory delights of Georgian culture.
A Revelatory Journey
As I reflect on my odyssey through the vineyards and coffee plantations of Kakheti, I’m struck by how much my perspective has shifted. What began as a somewhat narrow focus on the “best” way for Georgia to position its wines in the global market has evolved into a deep appreciation for the incredible diversity and dynamism of the country’s entire beverage landscape.
I now see Kakheti as a true cradle of innovation, where the traditions of the past seamlessly intertwine with the creativity of the present. Whether it’s the winemakers pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with qvevri fermentation or the coffee roasters redefining the limits of flavor, this region is a wellspring of inspiration and excitement.
And it’s not just the products themselves that captivate me, but the stories behind them – the winemakers and coffee producers who pour their hearts and souls into their craft, preserving ancient techniques while constantly exploring new frontiers. These are the people who make Kakheti such a remarkable and unforgettable place, and who have convinced me that Georgia’s true strength lies in its ability to embrace the full spectrum of its beverage heritage.
So if you’ll excuse me, I think it’s time to head back to Brooklyn’s Georgian Coffee House for another taste of this remarkable terroir. Who knows what other revelations might be in store?
